1. CARE BEFORE PLANTING

    Protect your nursery stock from wind and heat. Water daily until planted. Set plants in shade if possible. Call J.U.L.I.E. @ 1-800-892-0123 to locate underground utilities. (This is a free service.)
  2. DIGGING THE HOLEtree

    Measure the root ball or container first. The hole diameter should be at least 50% wider (more in compacted soils). Dig your hold deep enough so that the top of the ball is level with the adjacent grade – no deeper! In wet soils the top of the root ball can be 2” – 4” above grade. To avoid any settling the hole should have a flat firm bottom. As you dig save all topsoil and dispose of excess subsoil.
  3. PLANTING

    Place the tree on its side with the bottom at the edge of the hole. Slowly stand the tree up while letting the tree ball slide gently into the hole. Once in the hole, remove the rope/twine from around the trunk of the tree and fold back burlap from top of ball. It is not necessary to remove burlap or wire basket.
  4. BACKFILLING

    Fill around the root ball with the original soil. Soil amendments such as peat moss are not recommended. Chop up the heavier soils and use in the bottom of the hole saving the better topsoil for the top layers. Adding mycorrhiza to the backfill is recommended to improve the tree’s long-term health (ask for details on mycorrhiza products). Wasco Nursery adds mycorrhiza to every tree we plant. Tamp soil as you backfill to eliminate any air pockets. Mound a ring of soil at the edge of the hole to form a water-catching saucer and to allow for settling around the ball. Place no soil over the root ball.
  5. PRUNING

    Remove any branches broken during transplanting. Also remove any crossing or rubbing branches and narrow “V” crotches. Pruning cuts should be made at the branch collar – do not leave stubs. Use of pruning paint is not recommended.
  6. MULCHING

    Apply 2” - 3” of organic material (shredded bark, mushroom compost, wood chips, etc.) over the excavated area. Mulch depth should not exceed 4” and should not be in contact with the tree trunk. Maintain mulch layer for 3-5 years.
  7. STAKING

    Guying or staking of newly planted trees is unnecessary unless they settle and lean after planting and watering.
  8. WRAPPING

    Smooth or thin barked trees less than 5” diameter should be wrapped in November and unwrapped in April for 3 years after planting. Wrap trunk spirally from ground to lowest branch and secure on top.
  9. FERTILIZING

    It is not necessary to fertilize new plantings. However it is beneficial to add EITHER mycorrhiza (my-cor-iz-ah), a bacterium that aids the roots in finding water, or Woodace tablets, a very slow release fertilizer that does not burn the root system. Use mycorrhiza if possible. Do not use both. A balanced granular fertilizer may be applied the following year.
  10. WATERING

    Initial watering should be liberal to both saturate the root ball and settle any remaining air pockets. Subsequent waterings should be at 1 to 2 week intervals depending on weather and soil conditions. Soak ground thoroughly with slow running hose or root feeder. Do not overwater.